January 13, 2019 - leaving Morelia for Guanajuato

Leisurely breakfast at eight-thirty and our numbers are so small now!  There are just seven of us with Juan and Adan!!  (I’m celebrating the fact that I felt well enough this morning to do almost a full yoga practice!). I have a virtuous breakfast of yogurt with granola, honey, and apple slices, and the jugo verde (orange, celery, cactus, and something else).  Of course I had hot chocolate and some of that yummy bread first!

After breakfast we gather our belongings and bring everything down to the van.  A bellman actually takes the bigger suitcase, so that’s wonderful!  The back of the van looks so empty now, with four less people’s suitcases!

It’s about a two and a half-hour van ride so there is time to write and take a few photos.  Juan tells us that we are crossing Cuitzeo Lake, which is quite large!  We notice a lot of flooding and feel sorry for the farmers.  This area grows a lot of corn and onions, carrots, hay, and garlic.  We even see a horse standing in water almost up to his belly.  In June, July, and August there are abundant strawberries.  Morelia is famous for its avocados.

We were looking for a banos and the gas staton looked closed, so that didn't work - but they had DIESEL which the van uses!!  We got so lucky!

The University of Guanajuato

Guanajuato is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and hosts an international Cervantes festival of the arts every year.  As we approach the city we can see a large structure on the top of a small mountain which was built by the major landowner to house a statue of Christ.

We can see the vibrant colors of all the houses and Juan assures us that we’ll be able to see them even better and, in fact, he brings us to an overlook from which we can see the entire panorama!  Juan points out the largest house in town, which was owned by the largest silver-mine owner.  We also see a triangular park which is in the center of the city, and Diego Rivera’s house, which is now a museum. (Rivera was called The Frog, which we thought was because he was from Guanajuata - turns out he looked like a frog!) 🐸 

Then we take a funicular down from that height, which sure beats walking.  The elevation here is 2,000 meters, or a bit more than 6,000 feet.  Us flatlands are sure aware of the difference!

There is a beautiful church we would like to see and mass is starting to wind down.  Marilyn is able to take communion and she is even able to get her new cross blessed!  It’s pretty emotional for all of us.  After mass there is some sort of ceremony having to do with the baby Jesus.  Two ladies are holding a cloth horizontally and the priest places a doll on the cloth.  Then the ladies rock him back and forth while everyone sings to him.  The church was built between 1740 and 1788.

We head to the park which we had seen from above, and along the way pass the Mercado Hidalgo, a large market with everything available in it.  We stop for lunch in an outdoor cafe, Conde Rul, under umbrellas and adjacent to the most-beautifully sculptured trees!  There are strolling mariachis who ask if we would like some music.  (The one man who doesn’t ask, and just plays, really shouldn’t.)  Everyone is feeling like something light to eat, soup mostly, but I’m feeling better and get an avocado stuffed with tuna and it’s delicious!  I almost eat the whole thing!!  It comes with several large packets of crackers that I give to Ginger, since she is starting to get the communal bug.

We drive through town and Adan works his magic to get the van close to our hotel, La Casona de Don Lucas.  There’s no such thing as driving around the block here!  The hotel is gorgeous and Ginger arranges the rooms so that Marilyn (and I!!) get the downstairs room so her knee doesn’t get any worse.  I think each hotel has gotten more and more beautiful!

Ginger goes to lie down and Juan takes the rest of us on a walking tour of the area close to our hotel.  There are still Christmas decorations in view.  These are large balloon-like structures which will probably be lit tonight!  We see Rivera’s house and the Museum of Contemporary Art;  but the most fun is the Callejon del Beso or Kissing Alley.  It is so narrow that two lovers could lean across from their parents’ houses and kiss or hold hands.  When the girl’s father found out, he stabbed her and her young man held her hand as she died.  Or so the story goes.  Now, the third step from the bottom is painted red and it is seven-years good luck to kiss your lady there.

We come back from our walk and plan to nap or repack for a few hours.  Or write.  Suddenly there is a lot of loud noise and we grab our cameras and rush outside!  There are some characters performing and one is cracking a whip!  Quickly they begin marching down the street and they are followed by group after group after group of marching (mostly) men playing drums with small children in the mix.  Each group is carrying a religious banner and the very last one includes four ladies carrying the Virgin.

Marilyn, Barb, and I have been padding around in our socks, because there might not have been time to put on our shoes!  We had no idea what we might see and how long it might last!  Afterwards Marilyn asks the man at our hotel’s desk what we’ve just seen.  Turns out today is the holy day of St. Michael the Archangel and the parade was going to his church. St. Michael with his huge sword was the leader of the angelic forces and that’s why the paramilitary appearance of the marchers.

Around seven, everyone be Ginger goes off to dinner.  Juan finds us the perfect little cafe.  There are teenagers, nuns and a priest just coming out, smiling and laughing, so we figure that’s a good sign!  The tables and chairs are all painted like those in the museum!  There is a hamburger on the menu and that sounds really good to Barb, Marilyn, and me!  And hot chocolate for all four of us ladies.  (High altitude does not equal eat lots of heavy food!). The burger is delicious and by the next morning my tummy has forgiven me!

Juan hurries back to care for Ginger and the rest of us amble back, taking photos and enjoying the evening.  The church is open and Marilyn and Adan lead the parade to see the inside.  Yet another breathtaking church!  We continue ambling home and realize that Adan is wandering, too, just to be sure we’re all right.  Such a charming gentleman!  We get to the hotel and thank him for being so attentive and protective!!  And so, good night!